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Trip to Berlin
Reise nach Berlin
by N. Richard Wagner
Copyright © 2006 by N. Richard Wagner, all rights reserved.
The Humbolthain Flak Tower
(der Flakturm)
[Special Note: When my whole family went to Berlin in August, 2022,
14 years after the rest of this write-up, we got to go on an amazing
tour of the huge bomb shelter underneath this
very falk tower. It was huge beyond belief -- quite an experience.
I took pictures, but it was too dark for them to be any good.]
This flak tower is in the Volkspark Humboldthain,
in the Mitte district of Berlin, and in what was
formerly the Gesundbrunnen district.
Originally, Berlin was protected by three flak towers
(die Flaktürme): in Tiergarten, Friedrichshain,
and Humbolthain. The Humbolthain flak tower was paritially
destroyed in late 1945 by the French using dynamite,
but it was close to a major railroad line,
which needed to be protected, and
the French gave up the difficult task of bringing down such
a massive structure. The other two towers were destroyed completely.
I was taking a trip on the S-bahn around the entire ring
(recently completed). As the train neared the Gesundbrunnen
station, I saw the two towers high on a hill to the south.
(As you can see in the first picture, although my initial view
was not as close as this.)
The next day I make a trip to see them. The Humboldthain
park turns out to be beautiful, with huge trees and a beautiful
formal garden, which was formerly the Himmelfahrtskirche
(Ascension Church), destroyed during the war. It also has
a swimming pool. There is a significant hill, which was
used for the flak tower.
Of the four original towers, only the two to the north remain.
The towers were made into a site-seeing location, with sturdy
fences to prevent anyone from falling or jumping.
The very last picture shows a sign in the park. Part of the
sign says Grillen verboten, which means in German,
"No barbecuing" or use of a "grill" is "forbidden". It's clear in this
sign, since there is a picture of a barbecue grill with a
red circle and red strike through it.
When I first saw one of these signs, it didn't have the
picture with it, but just the words. My German vocabulary
is sort of old-fashioned, and missing some current and common words.
But long ago I learned the word: die Grille,
which means "cricket"
in German, the only word for this little noisy black bug.
Grillen just means the plural, "crickets".
So on my first encounter with the sign, I thought it must
mean "No crickets" or "Crickets forbidden". Of course this
doesn't make sense, so I thought it meant perhaps,
"Don't make noise like a cricket", or "Don't make love
like a cricket".
A German friend living in the U.S. told me a similar story:
During my first year here, my parents visited for Christmas.
They stayed in a friend's apartment which was close to my place,
and conveniently my friends (Liz & Craig) were out of town and
needed a cat sitter.
Now, Craig had stayed in Germany/Austria for a year or two
and knows German pretty well. So, he figured he could write instructions
for my parents (on what to do and look out for in the apartment) in German.
Most of it made sense. With the exception of him stating that
they have a "Entenproblem". He went on about how they have "Enten"
running around in the apartment and that one should spray them with
Windex which would kill them. My dad was reading this and had
absolutely no idea what this was about. At about the same time,
ironically, my mom discovered a lot of ants in the kitchen.
But then, doesn't "Ente" sound similar to "Ant"? Indeed --
they had an ant problem in the kitchen....
The German word Ente means "duck", while the word for "ant"
is Ameise.
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